The best of Languedoc's cuisine, ingredients, restaurants and markets.

Many people come to France to sample the country’s legendary food – and for good reason. The array of dishes and the quality of the food available in restaurants is second to none. Although the cuisine of Languedoc is arguably not French cooking at its most creative, it is nonetheless fresh, tasty and exceptionally good value for money.

Languedoc cuisine relies heavily on local produce: olive oil, tomato sauces, herbs from the wild garrigue landscapes of the region such as thyme, rosemary and sorrel. If you’re expecting rich sauces laden with cream and calories then think again.

It’s rare to find sheep and cattle grazing in the fields in this part of France, hence dairy products are often absent from menus, with the result that heart disease in the south is much less prevalent than in northern France where butter and cream are used much more widely.

Good food is extremely important to the people of the region. Work stops for a couple of hours at lunchtime as colleagues or family members get together to “break a crust”.

Eating is an extremely social affair in Languedoc – meals can often take in several courses and can last for hours as bits of news and gossip are exchanged around the table. Eating on the hoof -- rushing out of the office to grab a sandwich -- is not the done thing in this part of France. Food is for savouring and is part of life in the south. Sit down, take your time and enjoy.

Virtually every town or district in Languedoc has a favourite dish – often based on locally available produce. Although strictly traditional to the Toulouse area, perhaps the best known pan-regional dish is cassoulet – a filling casserole of haricot beans, mutton, pork or sausages and preserved goose – truly delicious and a real winter warmer. Another winter favourite, particularly in the more mountainous regions away from the coast is wild boar which will feature on many a menu. Appreciated for their succulent gamey taste, these pigs are hunted in the autumn and feature on many menus through until the spring. You really need to know a hunter to get hold of the meat yourself, though occasionally it is for sale in some of the larger supermarkets.

Confit de Canard

Equally popular, though at any time of year, is confit de canard, delicious pieces of duck that have been preserved in the bird’s natural fat for extra taste. Olives are traditionally grown in the Uzège, the extensive scrubby woodlands which extend north of Uzès. Used in countless dishes and also turned into the delicious olive paste, tapenade, they are a particular favourite on the Languedoc dinner table. This area is also well known for its truffles, a potent black fungus which grows elusively on the roots of certain trees and is used to flavour everything from olive oil to omelettes – though at quite a hefty price. As for other vegetables, asparagus and wild mushrooms, which grow in the forests of the Cévennes mountains in the départements of the Gard and the Lozère, are used widely in season. Apricots, peaches and cherries are just some of the region’s excellent home-grown fruits and are greatly appreciated when used in the dessert, clafoutis, a sweet pudding made of egg batter.

Oysters from the Etangs

On the coast, the town of Sète is famous for its bourride, a fish stew with a garlicky mayonnaise. Other fish such as sea bass, tuna and sardines proliferate on the menus of many seafood restaurants. Languedoc is also an excellent place to sample fresh oysters and mussels which are cultivated in the shallow lagoons on the coastal strip. It’s also here that you’ll find the region’s rice and salt production, notably around the Camargue.

In the region’s upland areas, there’s greater emphasis on dishes with figs which grow in plenitude at these slightly higher altitudes. This is also the area for various goats cheeses – ask any local resident which is their favourite chèvre and they’ll loyally tell you it’s the one produced in their own village. This is also the area for honey which comes in several varieties – most delicious, and understandably more expensive, is lavender honey.

Move towards the border with Spain and it’s plain to see that the cuisine of south-western Languedoc takes on a distinctly Catalan flavour. Not only is there a marked increase in the consumption of both  olive oil and tapas, but there’s also a preponderance of grilled pork sausages to be found on menus. A particular favourite is the hearty soup known as ollada, popular on both sides of the Pyrenees, which is justifiably known for its lumps of pork.

The people of the Languedoc don’t eat late. If you’re eating out, most restaurants are at their fullest between 7pm and 8pm because, unlike in many other parts of Europe, there’s generally only one sitting. It’s not uncommon for diners to be turned away from an empty restaurant at 9pm, say, because the chef is packing up for the evening.

Whilst it’s true to say that’s there’s more flexibility around eating times in the cities, you should think carefully about what time you arrive at a restaurant when you’re in the countryside. Even the smallest village will have several places to eat, which will often range from a cheap and cheerful bar offering light dishes on the side to a much more upmarket option which will draw its clientele from a considerable distance. Restaurants generally open for lunch around midday and will serve until about 2pm. They then close for the afternoon and tend to open for dinner around 6.30pm.

Once you have your table you generally have it for the evening and you’re unlikely to be harried to vacate once you’ve eaten your fill – that’s not how things are done in this part of France. Set menus are often the best value for money and it’s not hard to find a tasty three-course affair for around 15-20 euro. Of course, eating à la carte will push prices up but food in Languedoc is always exceptionally good value for money.