Autumn in the Languedoc… time to head into the countryside and sample some local produce.
 Down here in the south of France the grape-picking season - otherwise known as les vendanges – is coming to a close, and the leaves on the vines are turning vibrant shades of red, orange and yellow. Now is the time for la fête du vin primeur, a friendly, free and rather boozy party hosted each year by the wine-producing villages of the Languedoc region, giving visitors the opportunity to taste the fruits of their labours, combined with plenty of tasty titbits – locally produced ham, paté and preserves are often the order of the day. Barrel-rolling and ceremonial grape treading are all part of the fun, and if you can still walk in a straight line by the end of the afternoon, you’re doing well.
 Autumn is also the season of the foires – day-long celebrations of local produce and traditions, organised by villages with the support of their local tourist boards. One of the most famous in the Aude département is the Foire de la Pomme, du Vin et du Riz, staged annually in the small village of Aigues-Vives, east of Carcassonnne. Held this year on October 15th, the fair showcases the different varieties of apple and rice grown locally, as well as wine and apple juice produced nearby. The inhabitants of Aigues-Vives decorate the village with wheat sheaves and huge stacks of apples and vine leaves (red, green and gold are key colours) and dress up in traditional costume, dancing through the streets to music played on traditional instruments as part of a parade that culminates in the grand opening ceremony (for details of what is happening when, try the Aude tourist office or +33 (0)4 68 11 66 00).
The village is closed to traffic for the day and stalls are set up selling mountains of apples (Fuji, Golden Delicious, Granny Smith, Gala and Chantecler) at very reasonable prices, alongside chestnuts, rice, wine, apple-based apéritifs, terrines, patés and preserves. A giant apple compote is served, and for those who are serious about their food, there’s a gastronomic lunch cooked by a famous local chef; last time I went, the menu included a starter of terrine de canard (duck terrine) with apple jelly, followed by cuisse de pintadeau (guinea fowl) cooked with apples and calvados, and an enigmatically-named dessert - surprise aux pommes. No surprises there, then.
This autumn I’m taking my children to Florac’s Fête de la Soupe (Soup Festival). An annual event that’s been going for six years, this soupy celebration takes place in the pretty village of Florac, high up in the Cévennes national park, tucked away in the Lozère département. Held over four days (this year it’s November 2nd – 5th), the main focus is the soup-making contest on Saturday night, but there’s also ample opportunity to eat (soup), drink (whatever you like) and make merry. A huge communal vegetable peeling and soup-making morning will be held on Friday in the square in front of the church, followed the same evening by (what else) soup-tasting and guided tours of Florac. Bowls of broth are passed around for sniffing, sipping and savouring, and the spirit of bonhomie reigns supreme. Live music and street performers add to the air of festivity, and it’s a very family-friendly affair, with story-telling and treasure hunts planned for younger visitors. For details of all the events happening during the festival, see or call the Florac tourist office on +33 (0)4 66 45 01 14.
The inhabitants of the Cévennes area (les Cévenols) are renowned for their no-nonsense approach to life and a somewhat insular attitude, while the sparsely-populated peaks and valleys offer stunning views but precious little in the way of shops, services or amenities. In late autumn and winter the weather can be pretty parky or just plain wet (when it rains, it pours – the Cévennes boasts some of France’s highest rainfall figures), so remember to pack your woolies and a brolly, but don’t let this put you off. It’s what makes the area so special, and many bohemian characters have made their home here. If you really want to get a handle on the Fête de la Soupe and some of the other more unusual, colourful events that characterise the Cévennes, I recommend Les Cévennes – Rêve Planétaire by Marie-Josephine Grojean. Written in French, it’s published by Albin Michel, it costs 19 euros and you can order it at
As you’ll have gathered, there’s a multitude of markets and fairs held from now through into winter, and if you’re going to be in the Languedoc during this period, it’s the ideal opportunity to familiarise yourself with local food, wine and customs, not forgetting the locals themselves. Tourist information offices are the best place to get the low-down on what’s happening where and when, and of course, the internet contains a wealth of information. Visit for a handy database of France’s tourist offices arranged by region and department, with links to local websites, or try for news on local festivals and useful links, in English. If you’re curious about some of the harvest festival-type events mentioned above, is the region’s official site, and a good starting point. One important point: anyone who plans to attend the Aigues-Vives apple fest described above needs to know that there are at least two places called Aigues-Vives in the Languedoc. One’s in the Gard, within the Petite Camargue, but the other – the one I’m talking about - is in the Aude, near Carcasssonne. Don’t get them mixed up!
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LANGUEDOC WINE FESTIVALS
Want to try some Languedoc vin primeur? Check out our list of wine festivals held across the region this autumn.
AUDE
Fête des vendanges: October, Carcassonne
Fête des Vendanges: Octobrer, Ouveillan and Gruissan
Foire des vins primeurs: late October, Lézignan Corbières
Fête des châtaignes, du vin primeur et de l'agneau: October, Villardonnel
GARD
La roulée d'Héraclès (wine tasting and barrel rolling): October, Vergèze
Foire aux vins et à la châtaigne: October, Alès
HERAULT
Fête des Vendanges d'Antan: October, Cessenon sur Orb
Fête des Vendanges: Octobre, Laroque and Saint Martin de Londres
Fête du Pressurage: October, La Caunette
Fête des Vendanges à l'Ancienne: October, Saussan
Fête du Primeur d'Automne: Novembre, St Chinian
PYRENEES-ORIENTALES
Fête des Vendanges: October, Banyuls
Fête de l'Automne et des Vignobles: October, Amélie les Bains
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There's so much going on in the Languedoc that it can be mind-boggling. So to help you sort the wheat from the chaff, we've compiled a listing of what we feel are the most exciting, noteworthy events. Of course, it's all subjective - one man's rugby match is another's ceramics fair - but you can always add events yourself, if you think we've missed something worth knowing about.
We've also invited Languedoc resident and writer Louise Hurren to flag up each month those events she thinks could prove most interesting - everything from The Rugby World Club to Wild Boar festivals.