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Popular wine lore extols the “Chateau”, but the vast bulk of Languedoc wine is produced by Cooperatives. The first of these was set up in the village of Cazerdarnes, north of Beziers, around 1907. Cazerdarnes is now in the Saint Chinian AOC but of course in those years Languedoc could only produce VDQS at best.
My story today is of two cooperatives in the Minervois.
I have a particular affection for the Co-op at Pouzols-Minervois as I live in the village. One of their better wines, although not the most expensive, is Albert de Saint Phar at €5.00. A blend of Syrah and Carignan from the surrounding parcelles the “Albert”, which won silver at Macon in 2005, spends six months in oak. (The same but non-oak wine is sold as Canal du Midi.) I am never without a carton and when the Dussert-Gerber Guide 2006 arrived I was delighted to see this wine classed “Deuxieme Cru” in Languedoc-Roussillon. Hurrying down to the Cave, Albert was being offered at a 20% discount on the previous price I’d paid. I stocked up!!!
A few weeks later Hachette came out and – surprise – the Albert got a one-star\ ranking. As you may imagine, the 20% discount disappeared overnight!
Some 15km from Pouzols is the large village of Azille, on the fringe of Minervois La Liviniere. The Co-op has a broad range including an excellent Viognier but my favourite is a vintaged red labelled “Cesar Franck”. Apparently, this well known 19C French composer often visited the village to see friends and dedicated one of his etudes for piano to Azille. In thanks, the village has dedicated this wine to his memory.
As well as regular purchases of the Cesar Franck (currently the 2003, €5.00) I recently bought 8 of their 2004 Caveau de Silene, commemorating 70 years of the Azille Co-operative from 1934, and we sampled it immediately. We couldn’t get close to the flavour for the tannin which was very intense so the remaining 7 have been laid down in my own cave for 4-5 years to see how it develops. Intense tannin is usually an indicator of a wine with long age capability.
We’ll see. But never underrate Co-op wines.
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