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Tradition plays a large part in the selling of wines. The Rothschild family at Lafite and Mouton-Rothschild endlessly recite their ancestry to bolster their prices. Chateau Ausone, we are told, was first planted by the poet Ausonius in Roman times. In fact, the vineyards of Languedoc-Roussillon are the oldest in France and the Aude town of Narbonne was Rome’s first capital in Gaul.
 Within the Languedoc AOC of Minervois lies the mini-AOC of Minervois-La-Liviniere and deux pas from La Liviniere itself is the Chateau de Gourgazoud that appears on old maps of the 17th Century. For three generations Gourgazaud has belonged to the Piquet family, producing a full gamme of superb wines: in 2007 it is Annick Tiburce, Marcel Piquet’s grand-daughter, who runs everything.
The reds of Gourgazaud rely heavily on two grapes – Syrah and Mourvedre – both well suited to hot summers. The Chateau flagship is QUINTUS, currently sold as the 2001, a complex wine requiring ageing to bring out its cherry and truffle aromas. Second, and my favourite, is the Reserve 2003 that spends 12 months in fresh oak before bottling. At Gourgazaud they bring in new oak barrels for every vintage – an expensive business! Without the oak ageing, Cuvée Mathilde 2004 is a full-bodied accompaniment for strong red meat. Finally, keeping up with the trend for new cépages is a Cabernet Sauvignon bearing the Vin de Pays d’Oc label.
For the whites Gourgazaud grow Chardonnay and age it 3 months in oak in the manner of Chablis as well as the traditional Languedoc grape Viognier with it’s fresh fruitiness: marvellous with the oysters and mussels that abound in the Etangs of the Languedoc-Roussillon coastline.
The next time you are driving between Carcassonne and Beziers make a small detour north past Azille to the D52 and visit Chateau de Gourgazaud. Annick Tiburce will welcome you personally and take you to the underground tasting room.
Santé.
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