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Mid way between Toulouse and the Pyrenees, and overshadowed by its 14th century castle, the Medieval town of Foix is the new home and workplace of enterprising English chef John Player.
Tucked away down a cobbled backstreet, underneath the castle ramparts, John’s new restaurant Gaia is wowing the natives with his New World cuisine. “We have had one French customer who has come back seventeen times” he told me, which is impressive, all the more so when one takes into account the fact that the restaurant has only been open eight weeks. When I visited, on a Friday lunch time, the place was packed to the doors and French voices were the loudest in their praise. Surprisingly, it seems that one of the most popular dishes amongst the locals is John’s curry (Poulet à l’Indienne).
There is stiff competition in the town with several restaurants ranked in the prestigious Guide Michelin. Gaia, as its name implies, is blowing a breath of fresh air at the stagnant menus of its rivals, with their heavy reliance on traditional regional cuisine, which mainly tends to consist of duck in its various guises or the ever-present cassoulet. The décor is also an innovation. Instead of the dark gloomy interiors favoured by the more traditional restaurants, John and his wife have used a fresh pastel palette, giving a bright and welcoming appearance.
John is not new to the restaurant game. He has worked as a chef in some of the world’s most prestigious hotels and came to France from Sydney, where he had been working for several years. He was accompanied by his Australian wife who works with him in the restaurant. His ethos is that of absolute freshness in all his ingredients, an ethos which was certainly born out by an excellent Caeser salad, followed by one of the best Entrecote Bordelaise I have tasted and accompanied by frites which actually tasted of potatoes. The tarte au chocolat and English summer pudding with its red-fruit coulis, had the type of intense flavours which we had almost forgotten existed.
The lunch time menu also featured fish in the form of a fillet of Bar, and the popular chicken curry. He told me there was always a vegetarian option available as well, something rarely found in France and which will be welcomed by many international guests.
The lunch time Menu du Jour cost an incredible €15, washed down by a glass of the good local rosé at €2.50. There was also an à la Carte menu available.
John told us a little of his experiences in setting up the business. “We were lucky in being able to buy an existing restaurant” he said. “It needed gutting entirely, but at least it saved a lot of problems with the local bureaucracy, starting from fresh would have been much more difficult.” Contrary to experiences in the UK or Australia, apparently the alcohol licence was stamped immediately by an understanding Town Hall, but the separate licence needed to serve tea and coffee took several days! John has been welcomed into his local Chamber of Commerce and has even found a helpful Town Architect when it came to providing disabled access. He has made a great start and will no doubt succeed in a business where many Brits. have failed.
Booking recommended 05 61 65 64 96
Restaurant Gaia 24 rue des Chapeliers, 09000 Foix, France
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