Languedoc's best courses and exhibitions
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Whatever time of the year you visit Languedoc-Roussillon, one of the most authentic ways to experience the charms of this region is to book a stay at a wine domaine.
As the world’s largest single wine-producing region, Languedoc-Roussillon has no shortage of wineries, and the cannier producers have cottoned on to the idea that oenotourisme (wine-related tourism) is where it’s at.
Here then are four charming places to lay your head, all with comfy beds, good food and fine wines on offer.
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Château de l'Hospitalet |
What is it?
Château de l’Hospitalet is the jewel in the crown of former professional rugby player-turned winemaker Gérard Bertrand. This is a winery with bells on: besides the grape-squishing side of things, there’s an extensive shop with tasting facilities that also serves as an art gallery, 38 hotel rooms, a stylish, modern restaurant, swimming pool, and a pretty courtyard lined with boutiques selling handicrafts, decorative items, local produce and other souvenir fodder.
Gerard’s wife Ingrid does a nice line in Hospitalet-branded fine foods, also on sale here. A Christmas market and an annual summer jazz festival are two more reasons to visit this multi-faceted destination.
Where is it?
In the Aude, between Narbonne Ville and Narbonne Plage, tucked away in the garrigue, but only five minutes’drive from the A9 autoroute.
Tell me more…
Gérard Bertrand is one of Languedoc’s leading lights when it comes to flavourful, reliable, commercially-pitched and -priced wines, some of which are sold in the UK through Marks & Spencer.
Not only can you do a decent dégustation in the cavernous shop, which also serves as an exhibition space for selected artists, but when you’re all spat out, you can shuffle off across the courtyard to fill your boots in fine style at Le “H” restaurant.
Sip your apéritifs in the lounge bar before sampling the modern Mediterranean cuisine on offer in the restaurant; afterwards, coffee can be taken out on the terrace with its views of the vineyards of La Clape.
A fixed price menu includes access to the “wine buffet”, a central table presenting a selection of Gérard Bertrand wines, opened and ready so you can pour yourself a drop of whatever you fancy – a clever idea which means you can mix and match wines to each course, and find what really works for you without committing to a whole bottle.
As the only way to get to l’Hospitalet is by car, you’ll need to watch your alcohol intake if you plan to drive home again, but for those who have over-indulged (or for anyone up for a splurge), the adjoining hotel has 38 recently-renovated rooms providing 4-star comfort.
Summer season prices start from €120 for the smallest double room, going up to €300 for the largest suite, but rates drop at other times of the year.
Château de l’Hospitalet
Route de Narbonne Plage
11104 Narbonne
+33 (0)4 68 45 36 00
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Domaine Saint Hilaire |
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What is it?
A classically smart, British-run B&B within a working wine domaine. The location is pleasantly rural – you’re surrounded by vines on all sides, but only a short drive from the coast and a good selection of seafood and other restaurants.
Where is it?
Between Montpellier and Béziers, near the village of Montagnac (Hérault). Allow around 45 minutes to drive here from Montpellier airport; Béziers, with its direct flights from Bristol, is a little closer.
Tell me more…
Jonathan and Anne James run this 50-hectare vineyard, where they make award-winning Vin de Pays d’Oc wines. A couple with successful careers behind them (Jonathan was a QC and Recorder in London - hence their Advocate and Silk wines - while Anne worked with the Monty Python team and the globe-trotting Michael Palin in particular), they had owned and worked an estate in Languedoc’s Montagne Noire area since 1994 before moving to Saint Hilaire in 2002.
The domaine has four guest rooms (named after local winds Autan, Levant, Mistral and Terral… because it can get a little gusty around here), housed within a renovated farmhouse, and prices start from €120 – €170 (€20 reduction for single occupancy), breakfast included.
Rooms come with air-con, satellite TV, bathrobes, toiletries and ensuite bathrooms and those nice little touches (fresh fruit, mineral water, tea, a glass of wine before dinner) are all included in the price, along with a copious breakfast buffet. Anne cooks dinner on Mondays on request, and the couple’s award-winning wines can be bought from the shop across the courtyard.
Guests enjoy the use of two reception rooms, a library, stylish swimming pool and landscaped grounds, and during their stay they can visit the winery and taste the James’ range of wines (the couple are more than happy to talk about their winemaking experience, so this is ideal accommodation for budding vignerons).
Domaine Saint Hilaire
34530 Montagnac
+33 (0)4 67 24 00 08
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Domaine Gayda |
What is it?
A state-of-the-art domaine in a beautiful countryside setting, modeled on the “destination” wineries of the New World. Wine is not the only reason to come here: with the well-priced Maison Gayda restaurant, unusual, highly stylish BBQ huts, luxury gîtes, a wine school and conference facilities, this is a multi-purpose, pioneering sort of place.
Where is it?
In the foothills of the Pyrenees, in the village of Brugairolles (Aude), about half an hour’s drive from Carcassonne train station or airport.
Tell me more…
The perfect place for a “foodie” weekend of pure indulgence. Vineyards, wheat and sunflowers stretch all around, and the snowy peaks of the Pyrenees loom on the horizon. Simply stunning views are framed by the cleverly designed restaurant terrace and everything is just as it should be in this recently-built collection of tastefully modern buildings.
The vibe is laid back (no need to dress for dinner, although some locals do), and the fun of staying here is that you get to see what goes on, from grapes on the vine to wine bottle on your restaurant table.
Wine tasting and courses can be organised via on-site wine school VinEcole, the shop offers a dose of retail therapy (pick up a pot of the fancy rock salt that graces the restaurant tables or your favourite wine), and the super-smart winery can be toured, too.
Four luxury gîtes are situated within the grounds of the domaine, and are available to hire for guests of the restaurant or wine school; rates start from €150 per night for a double room, which can be booked on an individual basis, with shared use of the communal areas.
Each gîte has two double bedrooms with ensuite bathroom, fully equipped kitchen (complete with a fridge full of wine – a thoughtful and generous touch), and terrace, plus use of a swimming pool, tennis court and boules area.
A private brasserie is available to anyone staying in the gites, with a fully stocked bar, satellite TV, snooker table, piano, a good choice of films on DVD and comfortable sofas on which to unwind.
For details of the gîtes, see
Domaine Gayda
11300 Brugairolles
+33 (0)4 68 31 64 14
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Château Canet |
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What is it?
A traditional 19th century wine estate, with an imposing manor house that can sleep up to 17, plus ten gîtes in the grounds, named after grape varieties, which can sleep from two to seven guests.
Where is it?
Two kilometers from the village of Rustiques, in the Minervois wine-making area, just north of the Canal du Midi and spitting distance from Carcassonne. The coast is about an hour’s drive. You are in Cathar castle country.
Tell me more...
Surrounded by pine trees, this wine domaine sits within 115 hectares planted with vines, olive and fruit trees, with views of the Alaric mountains.
Guests are welcome to taste Chateau Canet wines, wander around the winery and cellars (formerly the stables) and experience life on a working wine estate. There’s a swimming pool, tennis courts, boules area and trails to explore on foot or by bike. Children have their own play area, and the “pick your own” orchard is open to all.
Special “weekend getaway” packages combine wine tasting, cookery classes and visits to the medieval city of Carcassonne, while custom-designed, semi-independent family trips are aimed at parents of children aged 5-16 in search of a kid-friendly destination. Made-to-measure packages can offer child minding, baby sitting and organised activities specifically designed with younger guests in mind.
Owners Floris and Victoria have travelled extensively but made Languedoc their home in 2006, and they live on site with their young family. Victoria worked for 16 years for a luxury travel company so she knows what it takes to keep guests happy.
Prices range from €440 for a week’s rental of a 2-4 person gîte, to €1,715 for the whole chateau.
Chateau Canet
Rustiques, France
+33 (0)4 90 12 31 08
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