Uzès - shop till you drop...

Louise Hurren bashes the plastic in some of Languedoc’s best boutiques

For a day’s retail therapy, there’s no better spot in the Languedoc region than the lovely town of Uzès. History buffs may wax lyrical about its medieval heritage, but me? I’m only here for the shopping. Call me shallow, but sometimes a spree is all a girl needs.

First stop is the central Place aux Herbes and the weekly Wednesday market (it also happens on a Saturday but it’s more of a bun fight, so I prefer the mid-week slot). This is a must for foodies: stock up on garlicky olives and extra virgin olive oil, fragrant herbs, pots of thyme-flavoured honey, and small jars of snail and shallot spread (I kid you not – it’s called escargotine).

On the far corner of the square in Uzes is gourmet heaven, also known as the Maison de la Truffe. A fascinating shop chock-full of things fungus-related, this is where you’ll find gifts for the man (or woman) who has everything: truffle knives, brushes, shavers, and umpteen fine food items (oil, pasta, polenta, vinegar, wine) incorporating la truffe: you name it, they stock it.

When you’re done with the comestibles, make like a truffle-hound and sniff out the fashions. The pretty, pedestrian-only streets of Uzès’ centre feature beautiful boutiques selling chic womenswear and luxury goods – perfect if you have the urge to splurge.

Want to work the bobo (as in “bourgeois bohemian”) look? Make a beeline for Sidartha on Place Dampmartin, or on neighbouring rue Pélisserie in Uzes, Les Armoires Vides stocks slightly oddball styles in back-to-nature linen, cotton and wool, along with some highly original footwear.

The side streets leading off from Place aux Herbes hide a multitude of small shops in Uzes (No Gap or Benetton here) selling shoes and clothing for the well-heeled visitor, and wandering through the maze of well-kept streets with their cream-coloured stone buildings and grey-green paintwork is all part of the pleasure.

For luxury gifts and homewares in Uzes, be sure to hunt down Design by C, on rue du Docteur Blanchard. This recently-opened treasure trove stocks gorgeous, contemporary items for the home: think giant-size lavender sachets in luscious, modern fabrics, possum-fur (yes really) throws, wraps and cushions and other highly desirable bits and bobs, designed and created by ex-London luxury retail consultant Celia Lindsell.

On a more traditional interiors tip, try Atzana, on the corner of rue Jacques d’Uzès and boulevard Gambetta (opposite the tourist office). On Place aux Herbes, there’s Metre et Carré (fancy French trimmings for the home) and Question de Charme (tasteful furniture, fabrics, table- and bed linen with that je ne sais quoi), or on nearby rue du 4 Septembre, Brocantine has a great selection of quintessentially French second-hand bric-a-brac (perfect for Pernod water jugs, Ricard ashtrays and the like).

For fragrant luxury, the very best address in Uzes has to be Le Petit Bain, on rue Jacques d’Uzès. Run by a charming Belgian husband and wife team, this tiny gem of a store stocks exquisite, exclusive perfumes and beauty products, including smart brands like Ren, Miller Harris, Abhana, and Romano Ricci.

Budget won’t quite stretch to designer fragrance? Step across the street to In Fine and create your personal perfume blend from a bank of mini-testers, before calling in at neighbouring Passion Coco for savon de Marseille and lavender water at very accessible prices.

When you’re feeling all shopped-out, it’s time for Terroirs. One of Uzès’ premium lunch spots, this upmarket but friendly restaurant serves flavourful, inventive cuisine made with Languedoc and Provençal produce. Check out their fine foods shop-within-a-restaurant and treat yourself to a foodie souvenir – because hey, you’re worth it.

Uzès: gourmet produce, luxury toiletries, chic homewares, funky fashions and food to die for. What more could a girl want?

SHOPAHOLIC HEAVEN

Terroirs
5, Place aux Herbes
04 66 03 41 90

Maison de la Truffe
27, Place aux Herbes
04 66 63 86 45

Atzana
5, Place Albert 1er
04 66 22 50 42

Le Petit Bain
7, rue Jacques d’Uzès
04 66 81 39 62

In Fine
rue Jacques d’Uzès
(no phone number)

Sidartha
1, Place Dampmartin
Uzes
(no phone number)

Les Armoires Vides
4, rue Pélisserie
06 19 87 29 22

Metre et Carré
30, Place aux Herbes
04 66 22 45 12

Question de Charme
28, Place aux Herbes
04 66 22 30 69

Design by C
21, rue du Docteur Blanchard
Uzes
04 66 83 79 81