Cost for two: 80 €. September 2006

A reader urged me to try this quayside restaurant renovated by the Pourcel brothers of the Jardin des Sens in Montpellier. One advantage is that it opens every day, and for a more extended season than most by the quay. A pumpkin soup with chestnut and creamed goats cheese was good, as was mackerel on a fruit and shellfish studded cous cous. For dessert a clafoutis of plum with ice cream was fine. The cooking is certainly sound and the service excellent, but sadly the wine list is somewhat pricey. A welcome alternative to the swathes of hit and miss establishments around the quay.

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